Lectra started its own cutting equipment production in China on 1 December 2023 and believes its customers in the region will benefit from the “standards of operational excellence” that already exist at its manufacturing plants in both Bordeaux-Cestas, France and Tolland, US.

The decision to insource production in China comes after Lectra acquired Gerber Technology in 2021.

Since the acquisition Lectra relied on Dutch group VDL Groep (VDL)'s facility to manufacture Gerber-brand multi-ply cutters and spreaders.

Lectra explained that production is now being carried out by its new subsidiary Suzhou Lectra Equipment Manufacturing Co. Ltd., in the west of Shanghai.

The technology company pointed out that it has operated in the Asia-Pacific region for over 35 years, and in 2022 the region contributed to a quarter (25%) of the group's revenues.

Jérôme Viala, executive vice president of Lectra said: “Our objective is to offer our customers unrivalled quality, wherever they are located. This means applying the same standards of operational excellence to all our equipment manufacturing sites.

“We must also ensure that we optimise our production lead times while contributing to the dynamism of our local supplier ecosystems. That's why we favour local production sites in each of the major regions where we operate. Today, we are the only company in our sector to have three manufacturing sites, in China, the United States and France.”

Lectra described the creation of the Suzhou Lectra Equipment Manufacturing Co. Ltd. subsidiary as a "new milestone in the deployment of Lectra's industrial excellence strategy on a global scale".

It added that the group intends to give priority to regional production, which it said is beneficial to the local economy.

Last month (November), Blockchain platform TextileGenesis, which is a subsidiary of the Lectra Group, upgraded its Software as a Service (SaaS) platform to include a tool that can trace the origin of conventional, sustainable and premium materials.

In July, Lectra developed VectorFashion iX2 and VectorFashion Q2 to enable manufacturers to cut variable volumes across all types of materials for small-scale production.

The Bangladesh wind project, still in its early stages, was announced at COP28 today (5 December) as a collaborative effort involving fashion groups Bestseller, H&M Group and GFA partnering with the renewable sector’s Copenhagen Infrastructure Partners (CIP), and local partner Summit Power.

This endeavour envisions energy generated by near-shore wind turbines feeding into Bangladesh's electricity grid, thereby supplying companies with a sustainable source of power. The wind farm, if approved, is anticipated to commence operations in 2028.

The potential approval of the wind project is said to mark a huge milestone, as it would be the “first large-scale offshore wind park in Bangladesh” claiming to reduce CO2 emissions by 725,000 tonnes annually.

With a capacity of around 500 MW, the project is said to align with Bangladesh's goal of achieving energy independence from fossil fuels, contributing to job creation, and enhancing energy stability.

CIP will work closely with Bangladesh authorities and other strategic partners to progress the project through necessary analyses and environmental tests.

Bestseller's financial commitment of $100m towards the wind project is part of the total project investment scheme.

Niels Holst, partner and co-head of the growth markets fund at CIP said: "With Bestseller, we get backing for our ambitions in Bangladesh from one of the largest and most reputable companies in the fashion industry."

The move comes as a response to the escalating need for a robust green energy infrastructure, especially in regions with a significant presence of international fashion companies.

GFA has advocated the need for collective investments of fashion brands to secure large-scale, cost-effective supply of renewable energy in manufacturing countries, and now calls for other fashion brands to co-invest in the wind plant and potentially future energy projects in manufacturing countries.

Thomas Tochtermann, chairman of GFA commented: "Renewable energy availability is a necessity if we are to truly transform the emissions trajectory of the fashion industry, and collective action is essential to realising this."

Anders Holch Povlsen, CEO and owner of Bestseller acknowledged the challenges of reducing indirect emissions in not only Bestsellers but the entire global fashion industry’s value chain and added:

“It is important to acknowledge that we still have a long journey ahead of us and that there are many necessary and important steps to take. One of them is to invest significantly and ambitiously in Bangladesh, as we are doing now."

Bestseller says it is actively engaged in working with its suppliers to establish reduction targets and facilitate transitions to renewable energy sources and noted that in 2022 it facilitated the installation of solar panels at its textile manufacturers in Bangladesh.

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The 2.7% increase in UK retail sales exceeded the 3-month average growth of 2.6% but fell below the 12-month average growth of 4.1%, according to the BRC-KPMG Retail Sales Monitor (RSM), which is an accurate monthly measure of UK-wide retail sales performance over the four weeks 29 October to 25 November.

Helen Dickinson OBE, chief executive of the British Retail Consortium (BRC), commented on the trends and highlighted that because of Black Friday starting earlier this year many retailers tried to give sales a much-needed boost in November which initially had a desired effect as Health and Beauty products showed stronger growth.

However, the momentum of the event did not hold throughout the month as households held back on Christmas spending.

“Retailers are banking on a last-minute flurry of festive frivolity in December and will continue working hard to deliver an affordable Christmas for customers so everyone can enjoy some Christmas cheer,” said Dickinson.

 November UK retail sales summary:

• Non-food sales decreased by 1.6% on a Total basis over the three months to November. This is below the 12-month average growth of 0.5%. For the month of November, Non-Food was in decline year-on-year.
• In-store non-food sales decreased by 0.8% on a Total basis since November 2022. This is below the 12-month average growth of 0.6%.
• Online non-food sales decreased by 2.1% in November, against a decline of 0.4% in November 2022. This was shallower than the 3-month decline of 2.8% and deeper than the 12-month decline of 3.0%.
• The proportion of non-food items bought online (penetration rate) decreased to 41.4% in November from 41.6% in November 2022.

Looking ahead, Dickinson mentioned the challenges retailers could face in 2024, including increased business rates and costs from new regulations, coupled with the largest rise on record to the National Living Wage. This, she noted, would leave retailers with less capital to invest in lowering prices.

Paul Martin, UK head of retail at KPMG, shared his insights, and said “With the clock ticking down to Christmas, sales growth in November remained weak at 2.7%, despite a big push from retailers around Black Friday deals."

Martin suggested that consumers are “abandoning expensive presents in favour of more budget-friendly gifting.”

Online sales fell again, but penetration rates rose to 41.5%, reflecting increased Black Friday bargain hunting.

Martin noted: “With less than a month to go and sales growth limping along, the cost-of-living crisis has taken its toll on Christmas spending for many households, and the continued economic conditions are testing consumer resilience."

He also predicts a prolonged period of targeted discounting as retailers compete for a shrinking spending pool and clear stock.

Martin echoed Dickinson’s predictions of a challenging few months of 2024 and said it could lead to “further casualties in the sector, particularly pure online players facing more than 28 months of consecutive sales decline.”

In the face of a challenging retail environment, Steve Ponting, director at Software AG, highlighted the importance of data-driven decisions and operational efficiency for retailers.

Ponting also emphasised the need for excellent customer experiences both in-store and online to retain customers and navigate the evolving market dynamics.

Fashion Revolution is pressing the global fashion industry for radical change, noting its environmental impact and "social "deep social inequalities".

The fashion organisation stresses the necessity for a united effort to address the climate crisis, with COP28 serving as a platform to hold major fashion brands accountable.

Maeve Galvin, policy director at Fashion Revolution, highlighted the industry's environmental toll and said: "In addition to being one of the most unequal industries on earth, the fashion industry is one of the most ruthless on our planet’s resources.

“It churns out clothes at a level that we cannot even quantify because the majority of brands do not even disclose how much they produce. It relies heavily on fossil fuels like coal in manufacturing, it guzzles water in regions where it is scarce, uses thousands of chemicals and drives record levels of deforestation.”

Five things fashion brands and policymakers must do to shift the needle on climate change

Fashion Revolution presented five action points for the sector, developed in collaboration with global campaigners such as Stand.Earth, Eco-Age, Action Speaks Louder, and the Transformers Foundation, at COP28:

1. Fashion brands are urged to set robust climate targets in consultation with suppliers.
2. Brands must transparently publish plans to meet climate targets, sharing their progress openly.
3. Brands should disclose information on where clothes are made, the quantity of production, and details about materials and manufacturing processes.
4. Policymakers are called upon to legislate for environmental and social accountability from fashion brands.
5. Fashion brands are to disclose the number of workers in their supply chain receiving a living wage and the prices brands pay per item to suppliers.

Liv Simpliciano, policy & research manager at Fashion Revolution, pointed out the disparity between commitments and actual impacts, emphasising the need for financial support for the transition to renewable energy in garment-producing countries.

Simpliciano added: “Fashion brands must put their money where their mouth is and make real financial commitments which share financial risk with suppliers across their supply chains. Supplier-led and brand-supported action is the only way we can truly decarbonise fashion manufacturing.”

Fashion Revolution cautions against isolating environmental issues, emphasising that climate justice in fashion cannot be achieved without addressing social inequalities.

Recent events, such as the brutal crackdown on Bangladeshi garment workers protesting against poverty wages, highlight the urgency of incorporating garment worker demands into the industry's transformation.

As COP28 unfolds, the spotlight is firmly on the fashion industry to take bold steps towards a more sustainable and equitable future.

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Protein Evolution debuted the parka garment that was designed by Stella McCartney and created using the recycling company’s Biopure technology at COP28.

Protein Evolution created the parka by transforming rigid packaging and industrial textile waste into textile-grade polyester. The polyester was then spun into yarn and woven into new fabric by Stella McCartney's team.

Protein Evolution's Biopure technology uses AI-designed enzymes to break down polyester waste into raw materials, creating a polyester indistinguishable from petroleum-derived counterparts.

The resulting polyester claims to be infinitely recyclable, boasting a significantly lower carbon footprint than traditional petroleum-based polyester.

Capable of handling various waste streams, from plastic bottles to industrial textiles, Biopure claims to offer a sustainable solution across multiple sectors.

Connor Lynn, co-founder and chief business officer of Protein Evolution commented: “Not only is this coat validation for the utility and quality of bio-recycled polyester – specifically polyester chips created using Biopure – it also offers companies an alternative to the landfill or incinerator for their fabrics, extending the life of their materials indefinitely.”

Protein Evolution’s initial fundraising round was led by Collaborative Fund’s climate-focused Collab SOS, which is in partnership with Stella McCartney and LVMH.

Stella McCartney was an early investor in Protein Evolution through its SOS Fund, and it’s reported the partnership has achieved a breakthrough in less than a year, turning unused polyester fabrics into virgin-quality polyester and piloting a circular solution for the fashion industry.

Stella McCartney, who founded the Stella McCartney brand said: “Over the last year, Protein Evolution has taken unused fabrics from my past collections to test and prove their textile-to-textile circular process. This allowed my atelier to design and create the beautiful, airy parachute parkas made from biologically recycled polyester that you can see today at our Sustainable Market at COP28.”

The parka is on display at COP28 at the Stella McCartney sustainable fashion exhibit through 12 December 2023.

Protein Evolution has claimed it is the “only company in the world” to validate bio-recycling technology through a garment that can be integrated into the existing supply chain, positioning it as a real solution to decarbonise plastic production and address the plastic waste crisis.

Sophie Bakalar, Collaborative Fund partner, commended Protein Evolution's achievements and said: “Protein Evolution’s technology delivers a cost-effective, high-quality way to combat plastic waste and create a truly circular product, not only in fashion but across industries.”

In October, the Stella McCartney brand was named as one of the early adopters of the Materials Impact Explorer (MIE), a risk assessment tool designed specifically for the fashion, textile and apparel industry through a collaboration with the non-profit Textile Exchange, the global technology company, Google, NGIS a location technology firm and the World Wildlife Fund (WWF).

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As discussions around COP28 take centre stage this week, the Textile Exchange Materials Market Report aims to guide the textile industry's efforts to align raw material production to limit temperature rise to 1.5 degrees Celsius.

Claire Bergkamp, CEO at Textile Exchange, underscored the urgency and said: “As global leaders come together at COP28, this report only reinforces the urgent need to double down on our collective efforts to accelerate the adoption of production practices that support our planet, its ecosystems, and its communities while focusing internal investment on strategies that decouple value creation from the extraction of new materials overall.”

In addition to the report, Textile Exchange has launched the Materials Directory, providing an online repository for industry participants to access information on raw material suppliers, production units, and branded materials.

The directory features interactive maps and a filterable database for enhanced usability. The findings call for a collaborative effort among industry stakeholders to navigate challenges and foster sustainable practices in global fibre production.

Key Insights from the Materials Market Report

• Global fibre production:
  • Increased from approximately 112 million tonnes in 2021 to a record 116 million tonnes in 2022.
  • Projections suggest further growth to 147 million tonnes in 2030 under current business conditions.
• Sustainable natural fibres:
  • Modest increase observed in sustainably produced natural fibres:
    • Cotton: 25% in 2021 to 27% in 2022.
    • Wool: 3% in 2021 to 4.3% in 2022.
• Fossil-based synthetic fibres:
  • Virgin fossil-based synthetic fibre production increased from 63 million tonnes to 67 million tonnes.
• Polyester dominance:
  • Polyester remains the dominant fibre, constituting 54% of global production in 2022.
  • Polyester production volumes increased from 61 million tonnes in 2021 to 63 million tonnes in 2022.
• Recycled fibres:
  • The combined share of all recycled fibres experienced a slight decline from around 8.5% in 2021 to 7.9% in 2022.
  • The recycled polyester market share decreased from 15% in 2021 to 14% in 2022, attributed to challenges in scaling textile-to-textile recycling.
• Urgency for sustainable practices:
  • The need to expedite the transition to fibres from preferred sources.
  • Call to intensify efforts to reduce the use of virgin fossil-based materials.
  • Emphasis on investing in strategies that detach value creation from the extraction of new materials.

In mid-November, a roundtable at the Textile Exchange 2023 conference shared the collective and individual tools and resources being used to drive more sustainable sourcing practices.

Earlier that month, Textile Exchange, business strategy firm Boston Consulting Group (BCG) and sustainability consultancy Quantis claimed apparel brands could increase net profits by 6% by closing the raw materials gap with sustainable sourcing.

The extension until December 2027 is seen by FESI as a positive development, providing predictability and assurance as talks over a new GSP can now resume with increased security.

FESI claims to have been actively engaged in discussions since talks of a new GSP Regulation started, providing its position and comments. The federation believes this agreement must inspire co-legislators to return to negotiations sooner rather than later, and with renewed vigour, to prevent similar situations from repeating in the future.

The GSP removes import duties on developing countries’ exports to the EU. By creating additional export opportunities, it helps the countries to tackle poverty and create jobs while also respecting sustainable development principles.

Jérôme Pero, FESI secretary general, highlighted the significance of renewing the current GSP rules beyond the end of this year and said: "The GSP is a vital asset for trade and the sporting goods industry, supporting millions of jobs and contributing to billions in trade. The prospect of losing out on it, at a time when its benefits continue to grow, would have been a step back, and we look forward to renewed discussions that will see further trade relations bolstered."

The agreement was reached just a day after the release of a joint report from the European Commission and the High Representative of the Common Foreign and Security Policy on the GSP, emphasising the monumental importance and impact of the GSP.

Established in 1971, imports from GSP countries reached an all-time high of €80bn in 2022, according to the report.

It further underscored the ongoing role of GSP in fostering economic stability and development in low-income countries, particularly in times of uncertainty such as COVID-19.

It went on to add that the GSP+ incentive has proven effective in improving standards on human and labour rights, environmental and climate protection, and good governance practices.

While acknowledging the positive step taken with the renewal of the current GSP scheme, FESI said it aligns with the views of Members of the European Parliament (MEPs) Bernd Lange (S&D, DE) and Heidi Hautala (Greens/FI).

In early June, FESI and the European Environmental Bureau (EEB) welcomed the vote in favour of the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) by MEPs but called for further improvements to its text ahead of the trilogies.

Frasers Group has exercised its rights to withdraw from its transaction to acquire SportScheck after the company filed for insolvency.

Frasers Group explained that while it is disappointed by the insolvency of SportScheck, "it continues to believe that SportScheck is an attractive asset in one of Europe's most important markets for Sports and it intends to work with the appointed preliminary insolvency administrator of SportScheck with a view to acquiring the SportScheck business/assets out of administration".

However, things changed when SportScheck, owned by Signa Retail Department Store Holding, joined the ranks of companies seeking protection from insolvency.

The announcement of SportScheck's insolvency was due to its parent company, Signa Retail Department, filing for insolvency with the commercial court in Vienna.

Frasers Group announced in October that it had intended to acquire 100% of SportScheck's share capital, in a deal that was poised to strengthen its presence in the sports retail market.

Frasers Group hoped SportScheck would benefit from its Elevation Strategy, which includes investments in concept stores, digital capabilities and strengthened brand relationships. Frasers Group also believed the retailer could use its Sports Direct brand’s strategic partnerships with global sports brands such as NIKE and Adidas to assist in its international expansion strategy.

Frasers Group increases Boohoo stake to over 17%

Documents submitted to the London Stock Exchange show that Frasers Group has increased its stake in Boohoo from 16.5% to 17.2%.

The Sports Direct owner has been gradually building its stake in Boohoo and since October has been its largest shareholder.

In June, Frasers Group initiated its involvement with Boohoo by securing a 5% stake. The rationale behind this move was that it saw potential synergies between Boohoo and Frasers Group's brands, namely I Saw It First and Missguided, with hopes of taking part in collaborative ventures in future.

Frasers has acquired stakes in a number of retailers, and Boohoo is just one of them. In June, the company disclosed that it had acquired an 8.9% stake in electrical retailer Currys. It has also increased its holding in online electrical firm AO World and now owns over 20% of fast fashion online retailer ASOS.

Pangaia and Avantium share a goal of developing fossil-fuel-free and recyclable materials to contribute to the fashion industry's sustainability efforts.

Avantium's Polyethylene Furanoate (PEF) is derived from Furandicarboxylic acid (FDCA) and will be produced in its so-called “world-first” commercial FDCA Flagship Plant that is currently under construction in Delfzijl, the Netherlands. Large-scale production is anticipated to commence in the second half of 2024.

Avantium's PEF is said to be a versatile polymer with applications ranging from bottles and packaging to films and textiles.

The company said it has intensified its focus on developing PEF for fibres and yarns over the past year, specifically targeting the fashion industry.

PEF-based fibres have the potential to replace PET fibre, constituting 54% of global fibre production in 2021 (60.5 million tonnes).

PEF claims to align with existing polyester infrastructure for both production and recycling, offering a scalable renewable alternative to fossil-fuel-derived PET.

Tom van Aken, CEO of Avantium said: "Together we will demonstrate that PEF-based clothing has great potential to play a key role in reducing the fashion industry's impact on the climate.”

PEF-based fibres boast a significantly lower carbon footprint compared to synthetic fibres derived from fossil fuels and can be recycled using existing facilities.

Pangaia, a certified B Corporation, said it is committed to minimising reliance on fossil fuels and prioritising renewable outputs.

The brand explained the partnership with Avantium will help enhance its synthetic portfolio, aligning with its dedication to transitioning to preferred materials.

Pangaia Collective added: "By working with Avantium and their PEF material there's incredible scaling potential to utilise PEF across a range of product categories which has led us to this partnership agreement. We look forward to introducing this innovative material once Avantium’s Flagship Plant is operational.”

In September Pangaia announced a collaboration with Archive, a branded resale platform, and tech company EON, to introduce Pangaia ReWear, a peer-to-peer, Digital Passport-enabled resale initiative.

Digital fashion solution company Style 3D hosted a webinar where panellists shared their insights on the industry's expectations from this year's United Nations Climate Change Conference (COP28) and the crucial role it plays in shifting from discussion to action.

The webinar posed the question 'what does the fashion industry hope to achieve from COP28 this year?'

Gary Knox, the host and vice chair of the Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry (ASBCI) expressed the importance of ensuring fashion brands participate in conferences like COP28.

He emphasised the need for fashion brands to gather consumer feedback through research, purchasing decisions, and product adoption. According to Knox, the challenge lies in transforming words into actionable steps and ensuring the industry addresses what consumers are asking for during such global events.

Knox who noted he is not directly affiliated with the fashion sector but involved in aftercare, brought attention to the diverse agendas of COP28 and stressed the significance of brands participating sensibly to provide valuable feedback to agencies.

The focus, Knox said, should be on making sure the industry's concerns are communicated effectively and result in concrete actions.

Knox's perspective was complemented by Joseph Mountain, the sustainability lead at UK online retailer N Brown, who highlighted the need for the fashion industry to move beyond exploration and understanding of what the future looks like in terms of sustainability.

Mountain said the time has come for actionable steps and implementations and pointed out that systems like Style 3D could greatly benefit from this shift toward action. He urged businesses to identify adaptable and impactful measures to reduce their environmental footprint.

The conversation also touched upon the challenges of consumption, described as the "elephant in the room".

Mountain explained the importance of understanding what aspects of the industry should be grown and what should be scaled back. This includes a thoughtful evaluation of areas that are both impactful and sustainable for long-term growth.

The experts agreed COP28 should serve as a catalyst for turning discussions into actionable steps with a focus on understanding and responding to what consumers want for a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry.

While bold pledges have been made to cut carbon emissions and shift to next-gen materials, research shows there is a 75% gap in fashion players onboarding their suppliers with their green ambitions, which could hinder the apparel sector hitting the 1.5°C target.

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